We have to in the big diesels. I don't know anything about these new cars. I know if the turbo is spooled up hard for very long there is a shitasston of heat running around the thing and shutting it down hotter than shit will cool it too fast will warp some of the parts inside there.

That being said there is a pretty big difference in pulling a huge plow or hauling 100,000 lb down the road. You typically don't drive gassers like that. I think some of the fancy assed pickups won't shut the (diesel) engine down until the turbo is cooled even if you shit the key off.
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ME TOO!
badass car!
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Same.

Though i do think the 10-spokes (if that's what they are) would look good as well.
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Interestingly, I talked to dad about the 6 cyl turbo thing vs V8. He was a gearhead until real life got ahold of him and it shifted from having fun to keeping the moneymakers rolling.

He told me back in the 70s and 80s when they tried to turbo up engines that they just threw a turbo on a stock motor and they couldn't handle the extra pressure and to a lesser extent heat. Then they got a bad name because you had to work over the head after 20,000 miles

If you're going to throw a turbo on a motor you have to put a different head on and probably Pistons and rings.

That might be a gross oversimplification but after working on some shit from that era, I can see them not doing the necessary engineering to make it successful. If they've done the requisite engineering, and it seems they have, it will probably be successful.

But, the other side of the coin is that turbos add more moving parts to fuck up.
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eh, it depends on the motor and the amount of boost you're pushing. The new Ford Coyote 5.0's for example, can actually handle boost really well with very little modifications. The fuel rails on those motors are paper thin, so just some enhancements to the fuel system and they've been known to handle forced induction with no internal upgrades.
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Im planning a Turbo build for my firebird as soon as i have money to burn. But i live in California...and pretty much everything mod related is illegal in California, so i have plans to make it a break-away system that i can easily remove when it's time to pass smog.

Im going to copy the STS design and mount a Garret T3/4 to the rear end housing. I'll mount the intercooler back there well, probably behind the back seat (Firebird chassis has a hump back there i can use). The Firebird has a Y-pipe, and i plan on installing an electronic cut-off valve just after the Y-pipe.

I'll make the pipe that leads into the intake removable.

So when it comes time to Smog, i just remove the pipe to the intake, connect the factory air plenum back to the intake and hit the switch on the electronic Cut off which will redirect exhaust back through the factory piping.

The only tricky part is the tune. Luckily, i have friends for that...i work right next to the best Dyno Shop in the county. I only plan on running 5-7lbs of boost, so im hoping i can get a decent tune that'll work well with the FI and still allow me to pass smog once the system is disengaged.
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I've seen quite a few stock Diesel pickups especially the Duramax with the power chips pop head gaskets.
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NEEDS MOAR BOOST!
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Im trying to add boost without having to fuck with the motor. 10lbs+ sounds nice, but then i'd need internals for sure, and i'd have to tune it every two years because there's no way a legit tune for 10lbs of boost would pass smog. Way too much fuel required.

If i were to disengage the turbo system, the tune would be all sorts of fucked up.
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See if there is an Cobb Accessport type thing available for the Firebird. The accessport lets you save multiple tunes on one device (like one for fuel efficiency, one for hauling balls, etc).
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isnt that turbo oil and water cooled?

i would say you were right if you were boosting the shit out of the car and slid to a stop and shut it off, but most people arent idiots and know this...
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Could be. I have no idea. I just own gasser pickups. The diesels I referred to are tractors and semis.
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Damn I have been missing this thread a bunch.

KC Native - Color options are locked in for the Focus RS..

Also, that 2013 shelby GT has a 5.8 liter based on the older aluminum version of the 5.4, not a 5.0. If it had a 5.0 badge, it was just a regular GT.

stock for stock, you got no chance of hanging with that Shelby. A 5.0 GT would be a good run though~
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Ahh gotcha. I guess I was just trying to make the point that things are designed within certain specs and tolerances. If the internals don't match the modification, it'll go fast, but it ain't gonna last. Cast iron fits are expensive.
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This is all just generally speaking but your average daily driven, normally aspirated gas motor will run a compression ratio (CR) around 9:1. Performance engines can get up to around 11:1 and still run pump gas but then require premium so most daily driven gas motors meant to run on 87 octane dog water will be around 9:1.
Most purpose built turbo motors will be around 7-8:1 because they’re making up for the lost CR by pressurizing the cylinder with the turbo. This also makes more physical room for air/fuel mixture meaning more power potential. Swapping cylinder heads to ones with a bigger combustion chamber is one way of lowering the CR.
Most turbo kits that are going on your typical gas motor will run a “safe” pressure of around 5-7 psi. They keep the pressure low to reduce the risk of detonation and one way of safely running higher boost pressure is to reduce the CR.
When you start talking modern engines with the way they can precisely meter fuel and ignition timing running higher pressures at the turbo on a stock motor isn’t as much of problem as it used to be but it takes selecting the right turbo for your engine and someone that can flash a good tune into the computer for the increased boost.
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