In your first world problems store.
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Haters gonna hate.:-)
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The manufacturer’s recommendations are basically just CYA. Your motor got the important break-in time it needed on the dyno before it ever met the rest of the car.
I wouldn’t tell you to go out and whip it like a rented mule but it’s not going to hurt anything to let the motor spin up a little here and there.
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Sauto,

Whatchya think the labor hours on replacing the trunk floor pan on the '67 will be?

I lifted the mat that was in there because I was going to build some panels/carpet the trunk for better sound/stereo quality; turns out that magnet mat holds water pretty badly so over time some surface rust has developed. I grabbed a wire wheel and lifted most of it but as I was doing it I noticed that the guys that spatter painted the inside of it painted over a couple of prior holes (all the way through the pan) and some substantial pre-existing pitting. Seems pretty likely that this problem isn't new to the car.

Think it's worth the headache? I could just climb in the trunk and have my wife shoot it with a hose until I find the leak, patch it, hit the trunk with some POR 15, build my new panels and call it a day. It's just that the floor itself is cheap; it's $80.00 from Rick's Camaro and if the labor's 6-8 hours, I gotta figure the whole job can be done for $500-$600 pretty easily. I wouldn't think it would take a terribly long time to remove the fuel tank, cut out the old pan, put in a new one and then strap the fuel tank back on.
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How'd those control arms work out for you?
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Friggen awesome. Drives like a different car.

I think when the guy was adjusting the carb, he dicked up the detent cable so the shift from first to second feels like something is kicking me in the spine; I need to get that and what appears to be an exhaust leak taken care of (then off to the AC shop for a new compressor).

But that's unrelated. The arms themselves couldn't have worked out any better. It tracks like a legit sports car at this point.
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ill ask my body shop buddy when i see him, he should be around here today or tomorrow.
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Awesome. I'm about to call them up today and get some parts ordered up for my customer in London.
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It's worth noting that they weren't exactly prompt getting my part here. I waited about a month for them and that's only after being told 'it will ship next tuesday' for 2 consecutive Tuesdays.

I had read that people had less than stellar costumer service interactions with them. That wasn't really the case here - they weren't difficult. They were just slow. As I understand it, the built the part when I ordered it. I guess if you buy through someone like Summit, they already have the parts in the warehouse so its quicker. If you buy through the supplier, presumably they've sold their stock to folks like Summit so they have to make you one. The last 2 times I called it was in paint for the arm once and the next time the bushing was still in powder coating.
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Hey guys... My dad was given a 97 Ford F150 that has a blown spark plug. I assume the threads are toast....So what repair kit do you guys recommend? I'm looking at Time Sert but looks really pricey.. Has anyone done this repair and how difficult was it???
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Sounds like a helluva car, got some pics?
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Go to an Ford F150 fan message board, they'll tell you all you need to know about this problem.
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Get a heli coil spark plug thread repair kit. Use the tap until it bottoms out. Then screw the longest insert on a new plug and put blue loc tight on the insert. let sit a couple minuteminutes then take the plug out and use the punch that comes with it to beat a new seat. Make sure you install the knurled end up.




I've fixed hundreds of them this way
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I guess after you screw the insert on the plug you have to install it back in the head lol
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I've probably done it more than most of those guys...

Guarantee I'm better at 5.4 3v plug replacement than most people on earth.
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