Do you only get AFR readings or can you actually see the voltages the O2 is putting out. (Not real versed in the set up you are running lol these questions might sound dumb)
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I can only see the O2 reading. Its all part of the hand held unit that came with the EFI.

Its possible its an electrical issue since it so erratic but ill be damned if I know what. I guess i can start running wires.

I'll call and probably send the log to FiTech tomorrow to see what they say.

Damn thing has been trouble free for a long time and just went to shit, I know its a specific problem but damn near anything makes them go wacky.
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Definitely a sensor issue, I have been fighting a similar issue with my IAT getting heatsoaked after parking, figured it out just by messing with the sensor by manually spraying meth into the intake tract. Maybe IAT>? Only a few sensors are going to mess with fueling..

could also be coolant temp sensor, 02, map.
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One thing I just noticed comparing an old log to today its flowing about 25% more fuel tt idle than it was before.

Im thinking an o-ring in the throttle body may be bad or an injector is sticking.
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FiTech is sending me a software update to try first with better algorithms etc..:-)

Tech also said it sounds like it could be O2 sensor which is a factory GM part so if thats it it should be a quick fix.

We shall see.

Hey Hometeam or Sauto have you ever heard of the Coffeyville Street Races? I went last weekend to watch a buddy of mine race. Pretty good event with some real quick cars.
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one wire o2?
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I heard coffeyville is a damn good time. When is their next event?

Buffalo has burn out comps on certain Saturday nights. And they do them on a little road just of 65 hwy. It's pretty fun to catch some really nice cars and some REAL pieces of shit just burn the fuck out of some rubber. I thought about taking the black truck down and blowing the tires off before I put the new ones on.

But my luck one would go and rip the bed off or something...
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I'm not certain off the top of my head.


They don't have any events listed right now, they usually do a late summer event.

If I can get my POS fixed I could definitely make it to Buffalo.
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Well tax season was bad....but I expected it to be worse. As a result Imma spend some money on the Camaro (67, for those who don't constantly update themselves on what car I'm driving). It desperately needs new wheels/tires so I'm going back to the original 15'' Corvette Rally look with white-letter tires, etc....

That alone should improve handling tremendously through getting rid of some rub, getting back to original suspension geometry and giving me some !@#$ing sidewall, but I'm thinking of trying to squeeze another upgrade or two in there while my wife lets me get the checkbook out.

I'm thinking of a Delphi 600 series power steering box to upgrade the firmness and feel of the steering in the front. Anyone have comments/experience with that one? Damn its expensive for a steering box but they are, by all accounts, amazing improvements in the driveability of the car.

Also considering some suspension improvements in the front and back - miiiiight switch to coil-overs in the front but it might be overkill. I put in some Global West upper control arms a couple years back and those made a massive difference; I feel like I'm right on the edge of having a damn near daily driver caliber car if I just make another couple of tweaks. Should I just see how it drives with actual sidewalls first? I feel like that could make a huge difference on its own.

The rear is bouncy and unsure but again, same issue there- maybe a sidewall will improve matters. If not, I think a 4-link is DEFINITELY overkill, anybody have some middle of the road ideas that will improve right quality and eliminate that bounce without making me feel every road perfection? I feel like the options in the back on the Gen 1s are pretty limited.

Anything else y'all wanna spend some of my money on? Y'all told me to get that damn Holley Sniper for 2 years before I did it and it's the best purchase I've made for the car, hands down. Someone hooked me up with his supplier for the control arms as well so y'all are pretty good about knowing your shit and I'll gladly listen to what you have to say.
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More side wall also means more flex, so keep that in mind. The ride quality will be better than something with a low profile sidewall but you might also experience more roll.

Coil Overs are never a bad idea. You say it may be overkill, but i highly disagree. You mention wanting to go back to factory geometry, and while im not sure about Camaros, but factory geometry in the Mustangs and other Fords is garbage. The best aftermarket suspension kits are the ones that completely throw away the factory geometry.

Aldan American makes a really nice Coil Over set up. I mean, a lot of companies do but much like i recommended Global West, I'll make some recommendations.

Buy Aldan American. Or, go back to Global West and see if you can purchase some Viking Coil Overs through them. They also offer QA1, but the Viking includes a 2 year warranty compared to QA1's 1 year warranty. I've had good feedback about Hotchkis too.

And as i told you when you bought the Global West arms, speak with Doug. He's THE man if you decide to call Global West. He'll get you into the correct coil over with the proper spring rate.

As far as your steering goes, we've had great success using the Borgeson Power Steering boxes. They're not a rack, but they're better than factory power steering. However, if you're running headers be prepared that you may have to modify the driver side header. They're direct bolt ins for cars with factory manifolds, if you have headers however the steering linkage may or may not clear. Depends on your header.

Another possible solution is an Electric Steering Assist. EPAS makes a kit. I have one sitting on the shelf that they promo'd us for an install (haven't gotten around to it). One of my local customers installed one in hi '66 Mustang and loved it. But you'll need to run at minimum a 100 amp alternator if you don't already have one, and be prepared to cut your column. (You'll need to cut the column for Borgeson box too, just not in the same place).
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And IMO DJ, you need to lay the dick down hella good and get your woman to understand that you NEED to spend money on your suspension.

Suspension and brakes in classics are things you simply do not cheap out on. If you don't do it right and spend the $$$ you won't be happy and it'll just end up money down the drain as you look for yet another replacement/upgrade.

Bite the bullet. Get the good shit.

If you can, take $4K and put it into your FRONT suspension.

I agree that a 4-link the rear is overkill. It's overkill for most people even though people will throw money at it anyway. Unless you're having wheel hop issues, a good set of Leafsprings is just fine. Global West makes a good set IIRC.
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Yeah I've heard there can be some clearance issues w/ the new boxes. My buddy said I should consider a 400 series box as they're smaller and should fit pretty easily but I'm not sure; seems like it would sorta defeat the purpose.

Fair point regarding the geometry - mostly I just want to get my janxy ass spring boosters out of the front end to get my raked stance back. I hate that the car sits level to slightly nose up - just irritating (and above 90 she dances; it's not reassuring). I'm thinking 15s in the front and 16s in the back (maaaaybe 17s) with wheels that actually fit the damn fenders can give me the proper stance again. So yeah, 'factory geometry' is overstating it, but I want a properly aggressive stance back.

Haven't heard of EPS - this need a rack put in or anything? You know of any advantages/disadvantages to just putting in an upgraded box? I'll do some digging into how they work but a cliffsnotes version would be appreciated (as I go crosseyed when engineers get awfully impressed by their new inventions....)

Thanks for the insight on the coil-overs. Like the Sniper, I just kinda keep talking myself out of it but I'm pretty sure I know I'll be damn pleased with it if I ever get it done. Would you recommend focusing more on the front end before dicking with the rear?
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Guess that answers my last question - throw money at the front.

Regarding your brake comments - trying to decide if I need to put discs in the rear as well. I don't know that I do, but I sure would like it. It's amazing how much you notice how little stopping power you're getting from the back when you're....getting no stopping power from the back. I know physics dictate that your front is gonna do more of it anyway but with rear drums (and kinda shitty ones at that), it sure does seem like a struggle to bring her to heel sometimes.
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EPAS hasn't been around for too long. Less than 10 years if i had to guess. Geoff is the man over there though if you need more info on their systems.

https://epasperformance.com/collecti...evrolet-camaro

No, a rack is not needed. These units are Electric Steering assist and are designed to work with factory components. Like i said, the Column will need to be modified. Or, the kit can be purchased with an already modified IDIDIT column (and i would recommend a column too if you have excessive steering slop)

As far as which has an advantage over another? Eh. Hard to say. I think it comes down to preference. One advantage over electric is that you don't have to run any fluid lines which is nice. No matter which way you go, you're going to like it.

BUT, at the cost of an EPAS system, you're now in steering rack territory. Not the BEST racks, but you're now in the Unisteer rack price range. I typically don't recommend Unisteer racks however. They don't play nice with aftermarket geometry. At least in the Mustangs. But it is something for you to consider. My choice? I'd go with a Borgeson box over a unisteer rack. But i'd take a higher end rack (Flaming River?) over a Borgeson box.

And yes, absolutely focus on the front. I often times have to talk customers out of spending $2K on a 4-link in favor of better front suspension/steering & braking. If your front is dialed in then by all means, otherwise you'll get more return on your investment in the front/brakes.

But, if you decide to bite the bullet and go with a full suspension conversion, the Mustang II kits are by far the best bang for you buck. It's not even close, part for part cost vs cost.

(Mustang II kits have almost nothing do with an actual MII. The name refers to the design which was lifted from MII cars, but does not share the same parts etc. Ironically, you cannot actually put a MII kit in an actual Mustang II)

GM Guys will refer to them as IFS Subframe Kits. But it's the same damn thing. But that's for when you're ready to drop $4K-ish and completely overhaul the front end.
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Depends on your budget. Nothing wrong with a nice set of drums. Sure, disc is better. But i've driven cars that stop perfectly fine with new drum components in the rear. I can get you into a 10.5", single piston w/ internal park brake caliper for about $750 before shipping. Worth it? Sure, assuming what's applying pressure to said pistons isn't the problem.

What are you doing for a brake booster/master? Because if you have manual brakes then you need to upgrade to some form of power brakes ASAP, well before considering rear discs. Whether that be a standard vacuum booster, a hydroboost or an Electric Brake Master Cylinder.

If you do have power, sometimes it may just be as simple as a shitty booster/master. I'm reminded of a car we did a brake job on a few months ago. The kid brought us in parts he purchased (we typically don't like that) for install. New booster, new Wilwood brakes up front. Despite that, it still stopped like ass. It was better than when we received it, but i'm 100% confident that the booster/master he bought sucks shit. It happens. My point being that your drums might not be the problem.
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