It can help. Pros have done similar things for years with hot-melts, but one is almost always better off with a dynamic fitting. There's also a reason why most pros still use stick and glue clubs--it reduces the overall weight.
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We got it in with only one weather delay. I played poorly on a course I've play maybe a handful of times over many years. I hit only 9 GIR and had 35 putts. If you've never played Honey Creek then you wouldn't know about the smallest greens in the world on holes #6,7&8. Drivable par 4s that I was close to the green on all 3 yet I didn't hit a single green in regulation. I hit good little shots too.

My putting was so bad that saying I had 35 putts doesn't do it justice. A child could have made 6 of the putts I missed. I was unconvinced and uncommitted on every putt I hit. Just wishing at it. The Spider Mallet with the big counter balance grip is a big reason and of course the greens I'm not used to. But still that putting was awful. Unacceptable.

The Cleveland Classic III is going back in the bag. Anybody want to buy a Taylor Made putter?

As a person goes through a round of golf they should always recognize a shot of the day. Mine today was the second shot on #10. I drove in the left rough but after the storm we played lift clean and place through the green. This is a tough par 4 and my second shot was about 200 yards to the pin with 190 yard carry over water. It was into stiff gusty wind. I smote a slightly choked 2 iron to 25-30 foot of the hole. It was awesome and I two putted for a nice par.

I know you'all want me to go on but It's time for Game Of Thrones so you'll have to wait.:-)
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The club can change with your game and your aging body.
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The clubs I use are just new enough to not be adjustable. I need to be adjustable.
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I play older equipment now a days. I bought a new driver once and regretted it when I tried to take it on the corse instead of the range. No more taylor made for me.

I know myself well enough that I would never actually try changing the club around. To me it is a waste of money and features. I have a few different drivers that I cycle in and out of the bag. Maybe I should get one of the new ones but I dislike the basketball head size of the drivers and definitely don't want to drop the money.

I'm sure better equipment could help my game but I don't play enough to actually take it very serious, I'm just not that good at it anymore. I do enjoy playing the game though :-)
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A side note about todays golf experience was the guy I played with. Carl. He was a good guy no doubt but all day long all I could think about was Rick on The Walking Dead saying "Carl" in his voice. "Carrrl"
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Buy a $25 electric heat gun, some binary epoxy, and .335 and .350 ferrules. Then, you can switch shafts in your drive all you want. $40 startup cost absent the cost of the shaft itself.

If you're getting older, put a softer shaft in. If you like your current shaft and want to put a higher/lower lofted head in, buy the head only.
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Dude, that's awesome. My last driver cost me about 40 bucks :-).

I usually buy the latest and greatest driver once it gets a few years old and tanks in price.
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Good examples:

Graeme McDowell, Louis Oosthuizen, and Lee Westwood used the same drivers for 4-5 years. These guys have access to anything and everything they want. Truth is, there is very little difference in the heads of the 460 CC drivers made in the last half decade. Shafts matter, but even then, a lot of the shafts made in recent years are nearly identical in performance. It's about what's finding right for you.

Good example: I was looking for a shaft with similar performance to a Fubuki Tour, but didn't want to pay $100-150 bucks on eBay for a pull. I settled on a shaft with nearly identical performance, an Axivcore Green, for $60 bucks new and uncut. A few minutes with a small piece of sandpaper to prep the tip and a Dremel cut-off wheel to trim the butt to size and I had the same thing for significantly less.

Of course, I could have just ordered a new club from PingWRX with the shaft upgrade and dropped 500 bones, but that didn't seem like an overly responsible purchase.
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That is bad ass. I need to be more informed on that type of shit. I just found a driver very similar to the one I play going for 40.00 right now on ebay :-)

Titleist 983 E with the stiff speeder shaft. Head size is smaller. I didn't know if I would like the E so I hedged my bet and bought the 983K also. Big spender, with 2 new grips I got about 100.00 in my two drivers :-)

EDIT... 30 bucks http://www.ebay.com/itm/Titleist-983...-/121322446132

:-) :-)
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So yesterday I shot a 49 on the front with punched greens and heavy wind. I nutted up on the back and shot a 39 with an ecs of 86. After a disasterous front I shot under my handy. It was nice.
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Well that was fun then. Were you high?


LOL :-)
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Mr. Consistency
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Holy shit I had another little breakthrough on the range today. Even though I've committed to the golf grip and with the help of Hamas Jenkins showing me the handshake follow through I still felt like I want hitting the ball all that well.

I have been making great contact but felt like I was not hitting the ball in tempo. Turns out I have never had the proper takeaway. Toda, iI practiced the handshake on the backswing and discovered that I have always failed to get any wrist cock or lag. Included in that is the tendency to "pick" the ball.

Today, just on a whim, I decided to consciously use the handshake in the backswing which forced me to turn the club in the backswing. Low and behold, I was coming down in the right plane and hitting the ball AND TAKING A REAL DIVOT. And I was smooth through the backswing. I added 10 yards to my 7i without even trying. I was at Smiley's golf complex so it was easy to measure.
Hamas, if it were socially acceptable I would let phillfree blow you in front a stadium full of people for helping me. Thanks for doing it phillfree. :-)



If I can translate this to the course I'll be thrilled.
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What you are doing is allowing the clubhead to turn in sync with the arc of your golf swing. A good drill for that feeling is to stand straight up and hold the club straight out with your arms fully extended, like you're hitting a baseball on a chest high tee. Then, swing it straight back behind you. You'll notice that your right arm naturally rolls over as your left arm folds. As you swing it back to where the ball is, your arms will naturally close the clubface, and if you follow through to completion the clubface will be completely shut. That's pretty much what a golf swing should be, just on a different plane (one that matches the angle of the shaft relative to the ground at address).
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