Originally Posted by Marcellus:
Slick Truck, I love me some SWB Chevy. I've had 2 69' SWB trucks and 2002 SWB GMC and will likely own another 67-72 eventually.
yea they can be sexy. I have some work to do on this one to get it to where I want it, but its what the TA was supposed to be.. a driver. Not daily.. but I can take it out in nice weather and have AC, normal tires so I can drive in the rain if need be, etc. [Reply]
I would go with a clay bar, aggressive then fine, and lots of soapy water, glide of you like and see what it does. I've done this with sucess but only once
The 3M eraser is also a great tool as it is a friction not a abrasive, meaning it may take the stripe but it won't damage the clear. It may not be aggressive enough like the clay bar. I've used a lot on tape and principles say it works for paint applied over clearcoats
Then your into chemicals, either easy off, acetone, or thinner and lots of washing. You don't want to be aggressive as the clear will give a little along with the typical striping paint. Easy does it. You will have to hand polish, glaze, and wax no matter what you do even clay bar. but it will be minimal.
If the stripes are chemically bonded to the clear you will be color sanding and polishing. not only to remove but to level the paint.
It all depends on the paint and the prep. It there a name on the design? is that all the pin striping there was?
Originally Posted by cooper barrett:
I would go with a clay bar, aggressive then fine, and lots of soapy water, glide of you like and see what it does. I've done this with sucess but only once
The 3M eraser is also a great tool as it is a friction not a abrasive, meaning it may take the stripe but it won't damage the clear. It may not be aggressive enough like the clay bar. I've used a lot on tape and principles say it works for paint applied over clearcoats
Then your into chemicals, either easy off, acetone, or thinner and lots of washing. You don't want to be aggressive as the clear will give a little along with the typical striping paint. Easy does it. You will have to hand polish, glaze, and wax no matter what you do even clay bar. but it will be minimal.
If the stripes are chemically bonded to the clear you will be color sanding and polishing. not only to remove but to level the paint.
It all depends on the paint and the prep. It there a name on the design? is that all the pin striping there was?
thats the only striping on the truck, and yes the guy who did the artwork put his name on it.. forget what it was at this point.
Put together my cart will pull the trigger on thursday. Truck already has CAI and catback
This will make it a 'cam only' truck -
TBSS Intake manifold and TB
TSP cam 224/228 112lsa 600./600.
new ls7 lifters
all new gm lifter trays
TSP chromoly pushrods
PAC .660 double beehive valve springs/seals/retainers
GM front of motor gaskets w/new crank/cam/water pump bolts
ls9 head gaskets
ebay head studs
circle-d 278mm 3200 stall
weeeelp a few little changes but the motor is together and ready to go into the truck.
keeping truck intake
ported 243 heads
comp cam 228/228 112lsa
new ls7 lifters
all new gm lifter trays
all new gm bearings and rings
TSP chromoly pushrods
PAC .660 double beehive valve springs/seals/retainers
GM front of motor gaskets w/new crank/cam/water pump bolts
ls9 head gaskets
ebay head studs
ARP rod bolts
melling high volume oil pump
cloyes timing set
TCI street figher 3400 stall
Hope i can get it actually in the truck, street and dyno tuned by end of the month.
I swear to god, if I can get two vehicles to these Versailles Sonic Hot Summer nights at least SOME OF YALL CAN SHOW UP~ [Reply]
Not sure if this is the right thread... but the heater core in my 04 Wrangler is going out. I get a fishy antifreeze smell coming from the vents every time i turn the thing on.
I've called two local mechanics so far, one quoted me about $550 give or take, and another quoted me about $750 because they'd have to do something with the air conditioner/freon. The AC blows just fine and is cold in minutes after turning it on. Most Wrangler online forums haven't mentioned anything about messing with the AC while doing this job.
I have 3 options here:
Bite the bullet and fork over the cash (I'll go with the cheaper quote, but i don't want to get hit with a bunch of hidden costs)
Attempt to fix it myself (I've done all the other mechanical work on the car, it's actually not a bad car to work on) but it appears to be a mofo and a labor intensive job for such a cheap part.
Trade the car in (it's old, impractical and i want a Truck)
easiest way to replace it is to pull the whole evap box IIRC, which is why they wanted to evacuate and recharge the AC system. i would ask the first shop if that was included in their estimate...
There are always quality and supply points which make prices vary. A dealer or OEM manufacturer part vs Chinese, still see the bud logo, junk. There is no way I can see of doing the job but disconnecting the evaporator./ servicing the AC.
If you want to DYI, it doesn't look bad, but take it to a shop for an evacuation before starting the job and then return to vacuum test before replacing refrigerant. He should just reinstall your old R134a depending on his equipment.* Replacing O rings and blower motor couldn't hurt along with a good cleaning.
*I used to sell AC service equipment but I am sure things have changed since those days. I am not a fan of dumping even R134a into the air or recharging without leak testing. IJS you can DIY if you choose.
Good luck
Originally Posted by BDj23:
Not sure if this is the right thread... but the heater core in my 04 Wrangler is going out. I get a fishy antifreeze smell coming from the vents every time i turn the thing on.
I've called two local mechanics so far, one quoted me about $550 give or take, and another quoted me about $750 because they'd have to do something with the air conditioner/freon. The AC blows just fine and is cold in minutes after turning it on. Most Wrangler online forums haven't mentioned anything about messing with the AC while doing this job.
I have 3 options here:
Bite the bullet and fork over the cash (I'll go with the cheaper quote, but i don't want to get hit with a bunch of hidden costs)
Attempt to fix it myself (I've done all the other mechanical work on the car, it's actually not a bad car to work on) but it appears to be a mofo and a labor intensive job for such a cheap part.
Trade the car in (it's old, impractical and i want a Truck)
Originally Posted by hometeam:
yea they can be sexy. I have some work to do on this one to get it to where I want it, but its what the TA was supposed to be.. a driver. Not daily.. but I can take it out in nice weather and have AC, normal tires so I can drive in the rain if need be, etc.
Love a good Chevy short-wide, you can have lots of fun with a short wide [Reply]
Originally Posted by Buehler445:
What did you end up with for wheels on your new rig?
haven't yet.
Im looking for the right thing in a matte black back ground and a machined face double dark tint.
But there isn't much out there.
I was in kc at the hubcap and wheel store with Tony today actually and we looked at some kmc somewhat like the last ones but in. DDT.
He's going to go through some more options and email them to me in the next couple days.
