:-)
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Hey lightning, screw you.
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Did you buy it...


update on livewire...
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Yep, love it. Now I'm in no rush and can take my time dealing with State Farm.
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According to State Farm, the Iowa diminished value laws only protect against collision, not comprehensive claims. I haven't had time to research this yet.
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Greaserama 17 this weekend at Platte County Fairgrounds.

Riding bikes up with a couple of friends.

Great car and bike show!
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Roll it down a hill and smash it into a tree. BOOM collision. I'm here to help :-)
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Rust converter, has anyone used it, what brand and where did you buy it? I have some rust on my pickup I want patch up. I say patch up as in stop the rusting, grind it down and bondo it up. Truck isn't worth $700 bucks with 250,000 miles but I kinda like it and don't want it looking like a total piece of crap.
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Por 15 is good stuff.
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I believe this is true.
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Ive got a couple of buddys who took several cars up. Its always a cool show
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Just watched a youtube video on that, doesn't look like a rust converter but part of a 4 part process. I was wanting to find something in a rattle can or spray that didn't require that many steps? Ever use corroseal? I was wanting to find something local and not have to order online.
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I second the POR15 for rust on beaters, drivers and work stuff but not to cover rust on classic restoration projects. It water/ moisture gets under it...toast.
FYI There are other brands of the same product out there but Chassis Saver is what I use instead of POR15.

Clean it up good bare metal if you can(acid if comfotable), degrease well and paint on several coats (dab it in all nooks and crannies and get to the back if you can. Be prepared to put filler (bondo or all-metal) on it when tacky. You will need to sand / grind if not.

My trick for utility repairs is to brush or spray POR15 "*silver*" on after bondo work is finished as it draws moisture, and then epoxy prime or epoxy paint while tacky. *black works great silver fills better. I did the engine compartment in my 240Z but propping and brushing 2 coats of the silver CS and then painting with Centari single state with a 2 part hardener (Dupont Pro-pack?) and I was getting rave reviews at a car club, show track event.


I an currently doing a total restoration of 1966 Dodge Coronet 500 Convertible (one owner) and have cut out all rust and MIG'ed in new. The bottom of the car has Chassis Saver over every inch (It's good to have a rotisserie to do this) as does the inside floor pans and inside of doors. Areas of the car that are prone to rust such as the rear sill where top sits have CS coated with epoxy primer followed by matching topcoat to follow
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Have some guy in a JD tractor hit it and crawl right over the top.of it. He can blame it on bad wipers and you can see what a sardine feels like.
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Will 3rd on the POR15. But I have a few tips.

Preparation is key. Grind all rust out.

Clean, clean, clean with POR15 cleaner. Make sure the surface is so clean you would rather eat off it than a dinner plate. When I have used POR15 I have used a combination of power washer, steam cleaner, and POR 15 cleaner/degreaser just to prep the surface before etching.

Be sure to make sure to etch your surface well with POR15 Metal prep.

Use their power mesh if needed. Buy 4oz. cans rather than the pint or quart. Once you open those big cans, be prepared to use it all otherwise. It is a pain other wise to open the can later. You could put a piece of plastic over the top of the can and put the lid down on top. But remember, air can seep and ruin the paint anyway.

I have used POR15 paint, cleaner/degreaser, metal prep, power mesh, and patch filler all with great success.
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