Originally Posted by DJ's left nut:
So what you're saying is that he's probably not going to get me that SRT Durango for $50K....
So, figure if I wait out the initial hype on that thing that I can find a few still sitting on lots in the spring of '18 for $10K under sticker?
If you are looking at new, go through truecar, see what your prices are, and compare dealerships.
Most truecar stores price the vehicles back of invoice. If the SRT durango is a limited production model, wait till some of the hype dies off, and find something that has been on the dealers lot more than 60 days. Cars.com is a great resource to give you an idea of how long something has been on a lot. [Reply]
Originally Posted by Dayze:
I'm with hometeam on this.
Used cars, I always just get a very rough idea of NADA and KBB AND (most importantly) market prices. Then, depending on if there is a large positive variance between the value books and market, it's up to me to determine if I'm wiling to pay market . But unless one is buying a hot commodity car, market and NADA etc 'typically' are in the same wheel house IMO. The last 4 vehicles I've bought have been super painless - can't imagine needing a buyers agent. Hell, when I bought my wifes Beetle, I did everything over email - granted it was a new car so the value is easier to establish. I think I paid 4% over COST (invoice less hold back and any FTD incentives), and they replied back in 10 minutes, done deal. They make some money, and i get fair price. A little research on the part of the buyer and the buyers agent is moot. and 'research', meaning once we knew what car, color.options etc we wanted, spending a few hours browsing online
I'm not spending hours haggling over $500 on a $20k car. To me, buying a car is a breeze these days. To me, it would seem, the market is hyper competitive for dealers / business. I would think they make more money turning cars at a reasonable return, rather than jacking up rates and hoping for some big score/sucker to over pay. just my gut feeling...no evidence to support that theory lol.
Yep thats pretty much it.
In fact, dealers would love to go to a no haggle system, where they actually make money on every car, sort of like every other product in the world.
Consumers wont let them. No matter what, every jagoff has to get X amount off of the price. I have people contact me halfway across the country on vehicles (this tells you im the cheapest price in a thousand miles) and still offer me 60% of list price... ARE YOU FUCKING HIGH?
Anyways, fuck the professional buyer shit and just ask me for help~ [Reply]
Originally Posted by hometeam:
Yep thats pretty much it.
In fact, dealers would love to go to a no haggle system, where they actually make money on every car, sort of like every other product in the world.
Consumers wont let them. No matter what, every jagoff has to get X amount off of the price. I have people contact me halfway across the country on vehicles (this tells you im the cheapest price in a thousand miles) and still offer me 60% of list price... ARE YOU FUCKING HIGH?
Anyways, fuck the professional buyer shit and just ask me for help~
Your last line was exactly what I was going to recommend. [Reply]
yep.
If Car X, the car I'm interested in, is listed for $17500 at the dealer, and I do a search in like a 100 mile radius and find the prices are averaging like $17100-ish....then, that's pretty much the market for the car. I'm not going to go in there and offer $15k. and on the flip side, I'm not driving 200 miles round trip to save $200-400.
now if the car I was interested in was listed at 17500 and that same 100 mile radius search showed the average price for that year/range, make/model etc was $16k...then yeah, I'm coming in at $15.5-16k. Market price is key in my estimation. Time of year, what's 'hot' at that time etc....more of an indicator of prices than KBB etc.
next time I'm in the market, I'm hitting up Hometeam. [Reply]
It's an article that speaks to Paul Walker's GTIII crash a few years back and more critically, the tires on the car. It makes a FANTASTIC point that I hadn't considered.
Tires work not just because of their tread pattern (that's for weather, really), but because of the chemical compounds in them. For your daily driver, it's moot as you wear out the tread before the compounds break down. For a collector's car, OTOH, those chemical compounds will break down before the tread does. So tires that look sound, probably aren't.
My Camaro's sitting on 10 year old tires that look as new as the day they were purchased because I put maybe 500 miles/year on that car. I'm pretty sure this article has convinced me to re-shoe it this spring. [Reply]
It's an article that speaks to Paul Walker's GTIII crash a few years back and more critically, the tires on the car. It makes a FANTASTIC point that I hadn't considered.
Tires work not just because of their tread pattern (that's for weather, really), but because of the chemical compounds in them. For your daily driver, it's moot as you wear out the tread before the compounds break down. For a collector's car, OTOH, those chemical compounds will break down before the tread does. So tires that look sound, probably aren't.
My Camaro's sitting on 10 year old tires that look as new as the day they were purchased because I put maybe 500 miles/year on that car. I'm pretty sure this article has convinced me to re-shoe it this spring.
My uncle who has been a mechanic for 30 years has always told me to replace tired every 3 years no matter the tread because they can break down..he said most of the time they will be ok but there is always a chance they can give out..it works for me cause I like getting new tires on my vehicles and I can use old truck tires on some of our farm equipment like trailers [Reply]
It's an article that speaks to Paul Walker's GTIII crash a few years back and more critically, the tires on the car. It makes a FANTASTIC point that I hadn't considered.
Tires work not just because of their tread pattern (that's for weather, really), but because of the chemical compounds in them. For your daily driver, it's moot as you wear out the tread before the compounds break down. For a collector's car, OTOH, those chemical compounds will break down before the tread does. So tires that look sound, probably aren't.
My Camaro's sitting on 10 year old tires that look as new as the day they were purchased because I put maybe 500 miles/year on that car. I'm pretty sure this article has convinced me to re-shoe it this spring.
When I got my Mustang my FIL had some nice Pirellis on the car that had less than 5k miles on them but were 10 years old. Tread looked complete brand new. I went to discount tire to have them rotated and the guys told me they won't work on tires over 10 years old for that very reason. Tread may look fine but it's not worth risking the makeup of the tire at that age.
They recommended changing tires after 6 years, even if the tread pattern still looks fine, especially here in the desert with the heat.
I know plenty of other guys who are like you and if the tread looks fine, those tires will be on the car 10+ years for those seldom driven cars. So I am not sure the real answer. [Reply]
Replaced the clutch in my truck last Saturday, too old to be flopping on the floor that many times. Got a bruised shoulder blade and pulled a muscle in my lower back and did maybe a 1/4 of the work. Pushing 50 sucks, thank GOD for younger family member that knew what they were doing willing to help out.
I will throw this out there, 2000 Ford F150 4.2, 240,000 miles, burns a quart of oil every 2 to 3 weeks, rough idle at a stop. PCV valve? Truck still runs like a champ, gonna milk her for all she's worth and that ain't much. [Reply]
Looking for a non-egr intake for a 6.6l Ford 400. I want to keep the motor as mild as can be as this is my 10yr old son's truck. So aftermarket intake with a aftermarket carb at this point is a no-go.
I was told a late 60's Torino had a 400 that may have an intake without any of the egr crap that should fit. I am not sure if that information is correct. At this point I have the carb sitting down directly on the intake. The kickdown and timing still needs to be adjusted. I am not too concerned with performance, just don't want to have to change out carb gaskets every 6mos or so because they burn out.
I really enjoy my 2017 Corvette Grand Sport but I may trade it in later this year, depending on whether or not they can end up fitting the 10 speed automatic in the Vette. My last few toys have all been manuals but I really like the relaxation of the automatic w/paddle shifters. However, my A8 trans sucks. If I'm even 3/4 throttle and upshift, there's enough lag that rpm's just continue to build until it decides to finally shift. I want it to shift the instant I tap the paddle. The A10 is supposed to be much firmer shifting.
Also, I'm regretting not going full old man and getting a convertible. I love the hard top but hate dicking with putting it on and off every time I stop at a grocery store etc. They don't offer a motorized hard top for the Corvette, so a convertible it is.
Plus, I'll probably do it right this time and just get a Z06 but not sure. I don't really go anywhere where the 460hp feels inadequate though. Jeez, I am turning into an old man to say that. [Reply]